White Cliffs Waterhole, Outback New South Wales |
Think of 'Australia' and 'Paradise' in
the same sentence and I'll bet you're thinking tropical. White sandy
beaches, palms and and clear blue sea. Colourful fish, corals and
lush rainforest. Balmy, moonlit nights and cocktails under the
stars.
Welcome to White Cliffs + Kestrel! |
But that splendid vision – while
undeniably fabulous – is only one of many versions of utopia in
this country of diverse delights. We never know where we'll find it
next – so we keep our minds AND eyes wide open!!
Even so, to discover the ultimate
paradise in remote Outback opal mining town White Cliffs was a
surprise, even by our standards.
But to find it lasted for exactly 7 ½
minutes was completely unexpected!
In the depths of the remote New South
Wales Outback, White Cliffs isn't the sort of place you stumble
across by accident, unless you're lost or maybe on the run. But
whoever you are, and however you arrive, there's a paradise for
everyone in this small (~200 population) community's many
attractions.
For a start there's the scenery. The
endless blue skies over the vast moonscape of the opal mines, pocked
with slag heaps and scattered with genuine Aussie dunnies. The
colours and light unique to this archetypal outback landscape have
inspired more than one artist and photographer! But this lasts
WAAAAAAY more than 7 ½ minutes!
Fossicking Fields, White Cliffs, Outback New South Wales |
50,000 'Stubbies' and counting ... |
Then there's the opal. The first
commercial opal field in Australia, and the only place in the world
where 'White Cliffs Pineapple' opal is found, the unbelievable
landscape left by thousands of abandoned mines still attracts opal
hunters.
But we didn't even have to leave the excellent Opal Pioneer
Caravan Park to find it – a few questions about the town's
attractions and the manager was pressing bits of opal into my open
and willing hands! Even our amateurish fossicking field foray was
'successful' – even though the few bits of 'colour' we found didn't
amount to a hill of beans in the REAL world of opal trading!!
Paradise could be a chunk of high quality black opal –
but I'd want a bit more than 7 ½ minutes worth for the kind of
money I'd need to get me one!
50c for an above-ground mine tour - Bargain! |
But it's almost worth NOT finding your
own opal when the local dealers offer world class experiences. The
50,000 stubbies* from which Joe's Opal Showroom is made house
fabulous opal jewellery, gifts and artwork, for example. And
(arguably) the cheapest above ground opal mine tour in the world is
on offer at the Red Earth Opal Showroom and Cafe!
A fine substitute
for those (all right, ME) too gutless to follow Pilchard's lead down
a 45 ft shaft on a shaky iron ladder into the depths of the owner's
mine …
Home on the White Cliffs Opal Fields, Outback New South Wales |
And there's more unique experiences up
for grabs on the self-guided White Cliffs Heritage trail tour. The
interpretive signs give fascinating snippets of local history and the
tour takes you through all the town's vantage points – and the
colourful array of opal field dwellings. Ironically, despite being
the first of its kind in Australia (and possibly the world), the
innovative White Cliffs Solar Power station is no longer operational,
with town power supplied from the grid.
White Cliffs Gold Course |
But the golf course IS
functional – and provides a unique challenge to those more
accustomed to conventional courses. But enticing as these
attractions are, do they comprise the ultimate paradise? No way!
And even the most experienced golfer needs more than 7 ½ minutes to
get round THIS course!!!
We didn't need the helpful ranger at
the eco-friendly Paroo-Darling National Park Visitor's Centre to tell
us we'd landed in bird watcher's heaven! The Nankeen Kestrel on the 'White
Cliffs' sign at the town entrance did that! As did Orange Chat,
Stubble Quail and Horsfield's Bushlark feeding in the gutters on the
Tibooburra road, and Chestnut-crowned Babbler and ChirrupingWedgebill rampaging in the scrub around the fossicking pits.
Dam near White Cliffs |
The
early morning splendour of this water-bird filled dam and sightings
of dry country nomad White-fronted Honeyeater made up for the
tyre-shreddingly rugged road to massive Lake Peery – full on our
June 2011 visit.
Meaning we didn't get to see the artesian mound
springs on the lake bed that provide a habitat for the rare salt pipe
wort (eriocaulon carsonii) when the lake is dry! Paradise,
yes. Ultimate? Not quite ...
Lake Peery, Paroo-Darling National Park via White Cliffs, NSW |
So what DOES the ultimate 7 ½ minute
paradise look like?
Before we got to White Cliffs, the
magnificent setting of our campsite at Lake Pamamaroo made up for the
nearest loo being ~1 km and the nearest fresh water ~16 km down the
road. And after 6 nights of severely curtailed ablutions also due to
a) low temperatures; b) the absence of a shower block; and c) minimal
gas and water? Well … you figure it out!! The excitement of
having possibly the only Milo-swigging, bird watching, pyromaniac, fisherman
partner on the continent was starting to wear off ...
Still life at White Cliffs |
That's what I'm talking about!
Paradise!!
And not a palm tree in sight!
Want more information?
AND ... even though it's cheating 'cos I've got WAAAAAAY more than one photo, I'm linking to 'Saturday Sareenity'! For a relaxed and enjoyable start to your weekend, why not click HERE to see what everyone else has posted this week?!
It seems so desolate Red. The lake is beautiful, and the sky, and opal hunting would keep me happy for half a day, but it doesn't look like my ultimate place to visit. It kinds of reminds me of the Oklahoma panhandle plains.
ReplyDeleteI would love to go gemstone hunting. My sister does it at least once a year.
ReplyDeleteDid you know at one time the opal was considered unlucky?
Now, people use opal for therapy and supposedly it can be used for problems with the digestive organs..... something I should learn how to do.
Great post as always Red!!
Gosh we've made a mess of the landscape, yet in amongst all of that are some impressive sights, and a host of exciting birds.
ReplyDeleteAs for fossicking, I'd totally lack the discipline to stick at it for more than ten minutes.
Opal therapy, MJWC? Sounds intriguing.
Stunning pictures and wonderful story !
ReplyDeleteYou have the most amazing fun out and about! And you seem to find the most fascinating places to explore, too!
ReplyDeleteI'm a bit jealous. :)
So that's were opals come from. I have always wondered. I'm starting to wonder if there are any beaches or "Shrimps on the Barbie" down under. I have really learned a lot about Australia from you and it's nothing like I learned at the movies.
ReplyDeleteGreat post!
ReplyDeletehow interesting!
i'd love to go opal hunting.
the lake is so beautiful!
looks like a fascinating place to visit.
gorgeous shots! i love every single one.
have a great weekend!
xx
p.s. i was not able to connect to the internet until today, hence my late comment.
Fascinating area to explore.
ReplyDelete-- to think of your country as all tropical would be like thinking of the US as all Florida. (Actually I've met people who do).
Hi,
ReplyDeleteA fascinating place. I love your photos, especially the lake, really nice.
The closed solar electricity generating plant was interesting. I suppose it was uneconomic to run it, but as symbolism, quite important I would have thought. Very nice photos. Just as well our land is resilient.
ReplyDeleteBonza photos of a harsh and desolate place, on the other hand the lakes make it serene :-).
ReplyDeleteI was with you all the way; great reading, always. Are you typing your posts while on the road; does it all go straight into your laptop when you can't find any midnight opals anymore, and then you wait for some wild hotspot in a caravan park to zap it on up the wires to us? (I'm picturing a little of the movie RV in here)
ReplyDelete@Rubye - You're right, it IS desolate - but in a harshly beautiful way! And the ultimate paradise was only such because of what preceeded it!!
ReplyDelete@MJWC - The opal still IS considered unlucky in many areas! And thank you for sharing about opal therapy - now I've got a GREAT excuse to go get that $900 ring I admired on the opal fields ...
@FruitCake - Hahaha! I'm not one for digging around in the ground for long, but once you get started it REALLY sucks you in! The next spadeful just MIGHT contain the big one ...
@Miss Tina - Thank you!
@TMWH - It's easy to find these places in OZ if you're up for it! But for every place in OZ I've shown you, there's probably 100 places in your homeland I haven't seen!
@SFlaGuy - Beaches? Shrimps?? You HAVE been sucked in by the advertising, haven't you?!?!?!
@Betty - I've had a spot of internet trouble myself recently! Not being connected made me feel like I'd lost an arm or something!!
ReplyDelete@Sallie - It always confuses me when people try to define the 'real' Australia when it's so big and diverse!!
@Magsx2 - That's my favourite because I rarely get such a good chance to photograph a completely calm water surface!!
@Andrew - So weird it hasn't been resurrected ... there's certainly enough sunlight to run it out there!! Next time I'll do the tour!
@Windsmoke - So many contrasts in this area - that's what makes it fascinating!
@Carole - Sadly, I'm not on the road 24/7 ... but my internet access comes from the mobile phone network so I can post (and have posted!) from just about anywhere!!!
Red, I agree 150% Paradise is a hot shower! I'd be happy to personally shake the hand of whoever invented this marvel. I like the image of the fossicking fields very much. If there wasn't a human in it I'd save it for a bookmark.
ReplyDeleteNot only did I enjoy your photographs, I also learned something new - about the Solar Power Station at White Cliffs.
ReplyDeleteMany thanks for sharing.
Cheers!
We have never managed to get to White Cliffs but hoping to go to Lightening Ridge this year. Such a fun read.
ReplyDeleteWow, great photos...love the beautiful lake.
ReplyDeleteNever been to White Cliffs, thanks for all the links.
Wonderful pictures.Do you want to see the opposite from your last picture, you can see it in my blog (ice age) :-)
ReplyDeleteHave a nice weekend
Angela
What a wonderful adventure you are having in life Red. I so appreciate the wealth of information you share with us and I loved this post. Fav photo early morning reflection - great beauty. THANKYOU
ReplyDeleteYou are cheeky. I was getting all excited. It looks and sounds an uncomfortable but interesting place to stay.
ReplyDeleteAmazing natural colors.
ReplyDeleteMy favorite is the last photo :)
Regards and best wishes
Terrific photos, Red.
ReplyDeleteWe had friends who lived there for about five years. I think their view is that 'seven a half minutes' was long enough.....
Hello, Red Nomad OZ.
ReplyDeleteLovely your works, full of JOY.
I am enlightened by your splendid works.
Thank you for showing your heartwarming world.
The prayer for all peace.
Have a good week. From Japan, ruma ❃
Excellent post Red, it's so good for people around the world to see the 'real' and sometimes (often) harsh interior of Australia. Still beautiful but unforgiving if you think you can head out there not equipped adequately to deal with the unique conditions! Under circumstance like this that 7 and a half minute shower would have probably been better than finding a humongous opal!!
ReplyDeleteThank you for a fascinating (and fun) post. I enjoyed the tour of White Cliffs, and with each attraction I became more and more curious about the seven and one-half ultimate paradise. You are a marvelous writer as well as a neat photographer.
ReplyDeleteThank you for an "aMAZEing" insight to a corner of AUS which even most Aussies don't get to see ... well done!!
ReplyDeleteIt looks like a picturesque place, and that's funny about the 7 1/2 minutes of hot water. I wouldn't have gone down the ladder either. Nice shots!
ReplyDeletewould like to be there for 127 hours!
ReplyDeleteAmazing colours in this series of shots! The beauty of the landscape rests on its starkness, harsh light and bold colours.
ReplyDeleteAs usual, your picture make me feel as though I had been there with you! Amazing vistas. And I do mean vistas! And, after the exceptionally described sights and the *ahem* lack of amenities, the 7 1/2 minutes of paradise sound like . . . paradise!
ReplyDelete@River - I'm SO with you on that one, girlfriend! In fact, I'd rather have a hot shower than ... well ... almost ANYTHING!
ReplyDelete@Tito Eric - It's amazing what you can find if you head off the beaten track ...
@Joan Elizabeth - Opal towns have a personality of their own - but they're all different!! Enjoy!!
@Nadege - You have to really WANT to go there, I think!!
@Angela - Yes, I agree! Your photos really ARE the opposite!!
@Saucy Kod - Thank you! Great to know my words and pix aren't dropping into some black hole ...
ReplyDelete@diane b - Haha! What were you thinking??!! But the shower made it all worthwhile ...
@Tatjana - Thank you! The last is my favourite too - I didn't realise how much I liked it until much later!!
@Kath - Hahaha! I might have been in paradise for 7 1/2 mins, but I wouldn't want to live there either!
@ruma - I think my world is a lot warmer than yours!!
@PDP - I wouldn't have traded my shower for quids OR giant opals!!
@George - Why thank you! Come back ANYTIME with comments like this!!!
ReplyDelete@Bush & Beach - Plenty more where this came from!! SO much more to see!
@Al - The ladder was the scariest thing of all ... WAAAAAY down into the darkness!!
@Dan - That's pretty much as long as I was actually there!!
@NixBlog - It's a whole different light, colour palette and landscape out there!!
@Diane - Amenities aren't always necessary - but in this case I made an exception!!
Its always the simplest of things that in the end give the most pleasure ;)
ReplyDeletenice narrations and pics
ReplyDeletegreat shots! most i like the reflections in the sea and the wonderful skies :)
ReplyDeleteDear Red,
ReplyDeleteI haven't visited the Aussie Bunch for a while. (Nor my own blog, either) I had thought, when I reached a certain age, life naturally slows down.....WRONG.
I see a lot of color blue.... skies and water. Oh, how I love a blue sky. Australia does have the variety of geography and critters. White sand.... good place to get a sunburn really fast. :) How did the Red fare there?
LOL - there's nothing so wonderful as a hot shower!
ReplyDeleteThe scenery is stunning - just stunning!
Very nice photos. you show a wonderful landscape. It looks so quiet and peaceful.
ReplyDelete...a fantastic sky and a gorgeous wide..
Love greetings, Karin
Each of these images is truly so beautiful.
ReplyDeleteSuch wonderful colors and light!
Great post and what an awesome experience! Loved it
ReplyDelete@Journey Jottings - yes, I'll remember the shower long after the opals are dust ...
ReplyDelete@Jidhu - there's even a kangaroo in the middle of the last pic if you look hard enough!!
@Tina - In the Outback, sky is king!
@Manzanita - Welcome back!! Although the sun was shining, it was generally less than 20 degrees C, so not enough heat for sunburn!! Not happy when Red is RED!
@LadyFi - I couldn't go ANYWHERE without my camera!!
@Karin - The landscape is extraordinary! Leave the town and you don't see too many other people!
@lisa - Thank you! It's almost impossible to take a bad shot!!
@Jeanne - Glad you enjoyed it! Now - come on down for the real thing!!
Next time I see an opal- I'm gonna see all these vistas in it! Love your trips and pics! Could I use some of your landscape pics as illustrations to some of my poems/stories on my blog? [of course will acknowledge/link- and quite understand if u say no]
ReplyDeletethnx!
KalpanaS @
http://nowritehere.blogspot.com/2012/02/poetic-license.html
My favorite picture is the last one. So beautiful!
ReplyDeleteVisiting from Saturday Sareenity.
Still life at White Cliffs
ReplyDeleteNow that is beautiful. I would love to sit out there and look at the stars.
Red I love your blog. Always fun and interesting.
ReplyDeleteOne day I hope to go to these places, your guides offer the quirky and off beat suggestions.
@Kalpana S - I'm flattered - and honoured! Of course you're welcome to use them. Email me - I may have some others that might work as well.
ReplyDelete@Aiketa - I don't know what it is about that shot, but it's my favourite too!
@Beach Bum - You'll be well rewarded if you do! The Outback sky full of stars on a clear night is STUPENDOUS!
@Mark - Why, thank you! I hope to see these places through your eyes as well some day!!
You were able to do so many things! I would love to have a few useless trinkets of Opal to show off and admire after my trip. Your pics were great. Can't wait till I get my own pictures of Australia!
ReplyDelete@Michaela - I wish the useless bits of opal I found would add up to enough for a spectacular piece of jewellery, but I fear not!!
ReplyDeleteWonderful pictures of White Cliffs. Thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteWe also visited White Cliffs last year. While we didn't visit the lake, we did stay in the Underground Motel, which was a great experience.
ReplyDeleteThe sunrise and sunsets were spectacular from the top of one of the three hills. We also enjoyed star gazing in a crystal clear sky with no light pollution.
We would thoroughly recommend White Cliffs to any visitor.
@Anne - Would have LOVED to stay in the underground motel ... one of the disadvantages of towing!! Like you, we'd recommend it, and plan to go again!!
ReplyDeleteBeautiful landscape, so miss it! On our first journey I had the free cold showers always, even when it was only 20C. On the second... I found paradise in Mt Isa´s tourist info :-)
ReplyDeleteI even spend two dollars, it was so dang cold (and Spouse was tough, he went for a cold shower, so...).
And I was so pleased to find free hot showers near outback Roma!