Victoria River Escarpment, Northern Territory |
I don't know what made us decide to
stay overnight at the Victoria River Roadhouse as we pulled in for
fuel, late on a Northern Territory July morning.
Perhaps we took the Grey Nomad's
experimental driving technique involving an inexpertly executed
U-turn directly in front of us without warning as a sign to stay off
the roads that day.
Evening at the Victoria River Roadhouse - and Sign!! |
Or perhaps the iconic Victoria River
Roadhouse, nestled below the wild Victoria River's magnificent
escarpments between Katherine in the Northern Territory and Kununurra
in Western Australia just looked too inviting …
Whatever the reason, we soon discovered
we'd lucked out with one of the most spectacular campground settings
in remote Outback Australia.
And 5 completely unexpected
extraordinary experiences that make this remote outpost on the
Victoria Highway WAAAY more than just a fuel and food stop.
So … what's to do? Here's how WE
spent a stay of less than 24 hours at the Roadhouse!
1 Get a photo of … well,
EVERYTHING!
From the iconic Roadhouse sign to the
wild outback landscape to the moonrise over the escarpment* and
sunrise over what is arguably Australia's wildest river, it's almost
impossible to take a bad photo (although I did my darndest!).
BUT … here's the catch. You won't
get good pix by spending all your time having happy hour in the
campground or drinks at the bar.
Here's my tip. Do the other things on
my list, and the photos will take care of themselves!
2 Admire the landscape from the Escarpment Lookout!!
Victoria River Roadhouse and Campground from Escarpment Lookout, Northern Territory |
2 Admire the landscape from the Escarpment Lookout!!
Heading west up the road and round the
corner, a reasonable walking track (with some steep sections) winds
up from the valley over the rocks and onto the escarpment.
I think it's a Kimberley Rose?? |
It's worth the effort for the
staggering views over the Victoria River Valley, and down to the
roadhouse and campground, nestled amongst the trees.
The fantastic array of wildflowers**
were a pleasant surprise!
And because it's in the valley between
escarpments, the sun on the RED rock enhances the incredible view at
virtually any time of the day!
3 Get close to Australia's Wildest
River!!!
If you DO try to get close to the
river, don't get TOO close – crocodiles are common in these parts.
And while we didn't see one on the Roadhouse stretch of the Victoria
River, on our crocodile cruise at Timber Creek, a couple of hours
west, we saw more crocodiles in a couple of hours than in the rest of
our lives put together!
The height of the old bridge compared
to the new gives an indication of how much water flows through the
river crossing during the wet season. The many campers who didn't
take the 5 minute stroll down onto the old bridge missed an excellent
opportunity for those sunset or sunrise photos where the escarpment
GLOWS!
A short drive south along a gravel road
down to the river gave a different perspective. On the lookout for
the crocodiles infesting the river, we weren't expecting the
buffalo*** that somehow wandered between us and our car …
4 Eat at the Roadhouse Restaurant
...
… and have a real multicultural
experience!
The pierced Nordic backpacker**** who
rattled off her practised spiel as we checked into the excellent and
scenic caravan park nestled between escarpment cliffs of the Victoria
River Valley was only the first in a string of overseas tourists we
encountered during our short stay.
An eclectic mix of staff representing a
smattering of other European countries variously served us drinks,
took our order, served our meal and cleared our table.
And the other diners weren't all Grey
Nomads on an extended happy hour, either! My shameless eavesdropping
picked up at least 10 different accents from both sides of the
counter in the small dining room – with Aussies way in the
minority.
More fools them!!
5 Walk the Joe Creek Loop!!!!!
The guidebook 'suggests' this walk is moderate
grade, but I wasn't so sure ... a steep, rocky track
straight up the escarpment; a narrow path under a soaring cliff;
gravel crumbling underfoot.
But the next day at Timber Creek, the
one-legged man with crutches***** on our crocodile cruise told us
he'd done it the day before and I felt like a big girl. Hardly
surprising because I AM a big girl, but you know.
Difficult or no, however, this walk
delivers the goods. Red rock, livistona palms, Aboriginal Art,
natural amphitheatre glowing RED in the evening light. It even
overshadowed the public toilet which sadly, wasn't quite scenic
enough to make the cut …
And if I can do it, and a one-legged
man with crutches can do it, what's YOUR excuse?!
Couldn't resist another RED Rock/Moonrise/Escarpment shot ... Victoria River Escarpment, Northern Territory |
This remote outpost in the Aussie
Outback is the real deal. But like so many Outback places, the only
way to see it is to stop and explore. Looking back, it's hard to
believe we spent less than 24 hours there – but I see at least one
more 24 hour stopover in my future ...
* I can't guarantee a moonrise for
YOUR visit!
** Nor can I guarantee wildflowers!
*** Wild buffalo might not appear!
**** And Nordic backpackers might not
turn up for YOUR visit!
***** And I certainly can't guarantee
a one-legged man with crutches!!
Want more information?
I've been wondering how you come up with so many wonderful, out of the way places for your blog so I decided to google map the place (your country). I see you will be posting for a long time.
ReplyDeleteWhat a great find. Your photos are fabulous and this an appealing spot to visit. I hope all is well. Have a great day. Blessings...Mary
ReplyDeleteOh my! And I'll bet many people just pass all that glory by without even knowing it is there. Their bad luck, I say!
ReplyDeleteyou're certainly doing a great thing in your lives, getting out and about in tandem like you do. Great photographs, love the commentary always. How far do the crocs roam from the waters edge I wonder?
ReplyDeleteOoh Red, you have such lovely adventures. Those little palm trees/bushes I love. So elegant. Great photos and another wonderfull post. Musta been a thrill to see so many crocs - are they always in the water or do they live on land as well?
ReplyDeleteI need more information. Can I get there by bus? (because I don't drive), are the caravans for hire to stay in, like cabins, or do you have to bring your own? (I don't have one).
ReplyDeleteI've decided to use an exercise book to list all the places I want to see now, instead of little bits of paper scribbled on as I read your posts.
But you can guarantee crocodiles?
ReplyDeleteI promise to stay well away from the river.
Is there anywhere in Oz which is NOT breathtakingly beautiful?
Interesting spot. I've just been looking at satellite images. There is a huge sand deposit south of the highway, an ideal place for crocs to warm themselves.
ReplyDeleteWhen I was much younger I remember people talking about how the United States had millions of great, out of the way places like old motels, roadside attractions, and locally-owned restaurants. That was when the national Interstate road system was relatively new with huge stretches empty and undeveloped.
ReplyDeleteNow it seems its nothing but a long stretch of strip malls, sterile national restaurant and motel chains. It's great to look at your pictures and dream about get away from all the hyper-commercialism.
G'day Red......what a spot!! What amazed me the most about these gorgeous photos is the clarity - no haze just crisp and clear. You wouldn't have to tell me twice to stay away from the river's edge, oh nooo.
ReplyDeleteWhat an enchanting and spiritual area. Wonderful.
I really must get up there sometime.. I am obviously missing so much. Your photographs are great-my favourite is the one looking under the bridge at the river.
ReplyDelete@SFlaGuy - Haha, I'll NEVER run out!! The more I travel OZ, the more I realise how little I've seen ...
ReplyDelete@Mary - Thanx for dropping by!! Indeed all IS well!
@TMWH - All this ... and not a bakery in sight!!!
@Carole M - How far do crocs go from the water? Depends how far back you're standing!!!
@River - I'd be VERY surprised if you couldn't get there by bus! And the roadhouse also has motel-style accomodation as well as the campground!! Good luck with your travel planning!
@Friko - Almost!! And there are a few un-beautiful places - I just don't blog about them!!!!
@Andrew - I can't believe we didn't see crocs there - we certainly saw them almost everywhere else!
ReplyDelete@Beach Bum - It's a bit too harsh and wild up this way for civilisation ...
@Rose - Hey! So glad you dropped by!! Yes, the air was clear, the nights cool, and the colours FINE!! What's not to love?!?!
@lorik - With your penchant for orange, you'd feel right at home!!
Nice idea to redefine perfection!
ReplyDeleteIf you want to see a road house stay in one - if you want to see the country, go outside! Good tip.
Like the pictures from "Calamitous Falls" in an older post - it was christened that after one of our family fell over on the way to it!
Cheers - Stewart M - Melbourne
I so must get to the NT next year. Stories like this inspire me to go (well, the one legged man isn't a major drawcard for me), but everything else IS!! Great photos too.
ReplyDeleteA guy on a crutch also did all those things?? Well, hats off to him. I can clearly see why from your pics though. Your country has so many wonderful places to adventure in!
ReplyDeleteWhat a beautiful country and a great place to visit. I loved your photos, the views are amazing. Wonderful post, have a great day!
ReplyDeleteOh we'll that's it then Red, if you can't guarantee a guy on crutches it's all over red rover!! Seriously this is like an oasis in the outback, I can't believe some folk missed out, thank you for being the keen explorer that you are..
ReplyDeleteI don't remember this place on our trip. Probably because we were on a bus. The hike sounded strenuous, well done for doing it. Hike, I mean.The colours are so warm and earthy, the ones that cry out Aussie outback.
ReplyDeleteI've never seen this part of the country but of course Victoria River and the Kimberley are an integral part of so much history. Thanks for this post, Red!
ReplyDeleteYour Roadhouse is sure more beautiful than what we call a Roadhouse here in the States. You get to see beautiful scenery, we get to see parked cars and pavement.
ReplyDeleteOur Roadhouse is a Steakhouse restaurant... no campground NADA!!
Great pictures!
Upon my return, I looked for you, my Dear, but now I see what you did.... you changed your name on me. And .... amazing adventures are what I find on your blog. No rabbit behind the bush for you two. Ha
ReplyDeleteWildest river? It looks like a pane of glass. Or do you mean surrounding territory and critters?
I admire your stamina for all your treks through the wilds of your country land. That is what makes all your lean leg dancing muscles. Teasing, about the dancing, I mean.
I've been teaching myself "tap" during my hiatus. Come join. (smile)
Love to you, Manzi
The photos have to take care of themselves, because you nearly always have so very much going on.~Mary
ReplyDeleteWooee! Look at them pictures. Interestingly we were there in the month of July and let me tell you it was too HOT to do any walk around Joes Creek. It was all we could do to stand in the shade of a spindly tree to gulp down our thermos coffee. However the scene from the parking lot was spectacular and my early model point n shoot camera did not produce photos as good as yours.Joes Creek, Timber Creek and Victoria River Roadhouse are on our list of places to re-visit. Thanks for the reminder.
ReplyDeleteThose d#$n gray nomads ;>>))...the inexpertly made turn and the spending all their time on happy hours in the campground ... I know those people! (But even though both parts of the title apply to us, I'd rather explore like you guys do!) Beautiful there -- glad you discovered it.
ReplyDelete@Stewart - It's only imperfect if you think it so! Just heard a great quote - 'Think outside. You don't need a box'!!!
ReplyDelete@Go Camping - May I suggest narrowing Central OZ down to 1 or 2 regions? There's too much to do properly in one visit!
@Aleah - That guy made my 'achievements' seem like nothing. But who cares when the scenery's THIS good?!?!
@eileeninmd - This far north, and you're really in the WILD zone! Glad you enjoyed!
@PDP - Are you kidding? It's an honour and a privilege to be an explorer downunder!!!
@diane b - you might not have even stopped there. If you don't get to look around, it's just another outback roadhouse!!!
ReplyDelete@FruitCake - I was a Victoria River and Kimberley virgin until this year!!! But it's not the kinda place to be gentle with you ...
@Are We There Yet - Tragically, we also have the other kind of roadhouses too ... but the remote outback ones are often an experience in themselves!
@Manzanita - Welcome back! I've missed you!!! Sometimes it's OK to be a moving target - but didn't mean to shake you off with the name change!!! And the day I get lean leg muscles?? HHHMMMmmm... not sure what I'll do ...
@FrankandMary - Yeah, I just hold the camera out, press the trigger - I mean shutter button - and a cool pic pops out the other end! Saves a helluva lot of time!!!
ReplyDelete@Frankie G - Was only just July for us - the 2nd!!! It was pretty warm that day, but we worked through it ... and my point and shoot camera managed those pix!!
@Sallie - I know those people too!! Not that I've got anything against happy hour - only when it takes over your whole travelling life to the point where it's the focus of the day! But hey!! That's just me!!! Each to his own, huh?!
I would love to see this part of Australia sometime. Thanks for tip on Crocs! It is an important one to remember.
ReplyDeleteWe have only been to NT once - and then only as far north as Alice Springs. Fantastic images and story Red. You have certainly reminded me why I want to visit more of NT.
ReplyDelete