The Pinnacle Lookout with Lake Bellfield below, Grampians National Park, Victoria |
WARNING: Do NOT attempt this walk if you don't like A) heights; B) snakes; C) wildflowers; or D) looking uncool!
Whether or not D) applies depends to a
certain degree on physical fitness levels – and possibly hiking
fashion sense! Although tragically that's not a factor if you're
like me – red face, heaving chest and death-rattle puffing after
ascending several steep staircases and precipitous pinches through
the 470 metre elevation (~1560 feet) of this hike – are guaranteed
to immediately counteract the effects of even the most fashionable
hiking gear!
The Pinnacle (see circle & inset) from Halls Gap Main Street, Grampians National Park |
Sadly, the terrific general store in
Grampians town Halls Gap sells everything BUT badges that state
'Don't Panic! I'm NOT having a heart attack!'
Mackeys Peak rock en route to the Pinnacle, Grampians National Park |
So wielding a camera as if you know
what you're doing is a far better antidote to D) as it's possible to
surreptitiously catch your breath under the guise of admiring and
photographing the view.
Thankfully, there are a lot of views to
admire on the 3.6 km (2.23 mile) trek up the escarpment from the
trail-head behind the excellent Halls Gap Caravan Park to the
Pinnacle, one of the most popular vantage points in the Grampians
National Park.
But admiring the staggering view from
the truly impressive vantage point of the Pinnacle doesn't come
easily.
The jagged rocky outcrops forming the
distinctive Halls Gap skyline towering above its main street appear
impossibly high up and far away (see above). But the sharply pointed spur of
rock with fuzzy edges – the safety rail – jutting out from the
clifftop along the line of peaks above the town IS attainable!
Halls Gap Caravan Park Campground from Stony Creek |
Of course a 'Hard' grade hike requires
preparation. So before you climb, take a trip to the marvellous
Halls Gap Bakery, chocker with ready made sandwiches, rolls and apple
shortbreads (me) and vanilla slices (Pilchard). Although these are
readily interchangeable with the Lumberjack cake (me) and Hedgehog
slice (Pilchard). But I digress …
Passing the grave of baby Agnes
Ffoulkes, tragic victim of the hardships faced by pioneers in this
once-remote spot, the track immediately ascends to the first of many
staircases that make the first leg to Mackeys Peak a pretty stiff
climb. Stop to admire and photograph (yes, that's a euphemism!) the
fine views of Chatauqua Peak and across the valley to Boronia Peak –
both fine walks for another day. At this point, you'll be looking up
at them.
Red rests at Mackeys Peak, 2011, wth Halls Gap and Boronia Peak in the background |
BUT … you'll soon be higher than
both!
Steeper than they look!!! |
If you keep going, that is. There's no
shame in returning to Halls Gap at this point – as we did in 2011 –
but why forgo the excitement of an uncountable number of steps; steep
drop-offs and cliffs; wildflowers; and possibly even snakes?
And if you're already a victim of D),
you've got nothing to lose by carrying on ...
Finally the stairs even out and the
heavily wooded track winds almost horizontally through a scattering
of impressive rocky outcrops, some with scary looking rock-climbing
paraphernalia attached at crazy heights (see below). Don't underestimate (or
under-utilise) the many opportunities available in this section to
further reduce the impact of D) by stopping to photograph the
numerous wildflowers along the trail.
That's if you've been smart enough to
take the hike in spring!
Although the Grampians wildflower
season lasts for several months, we scored the most we'd EVER seen in
20+ years of Grampians visits in late October 2012. And the most
snakes … but that's another story!
Grampians Wildflowers on the Pinnacle Trail, Victoria |
Trust me - you'll be grateful you took
those D)-preventative photographic precautions as the track emerges
from the forest and into the open amongst the distinctive weathered
granite peaks and crags that epitomise the jagged mountain ranges of
Grampians.
Rock face with Climbing gear, Pinnacle track, Grampians National Park |
Why? Because the track winds steadily
up along rocky spurs, through narrow ravines and along ridgetops
towards the Pinnacle. A red face and shortness of breath just can't
be helped here – unless you're one of those frightening
fitness-fetishists largely responsible for the high rates of low
self-esteem amongst the less young and agile ...
Top of the Ridge Panorama, with Pinnacle Lookout at left, Grampians National Park, Victoria |
But the scenic splendour now unfolding all around more than makes up for any residual effects of a life-long love affair with country bakeries. Staggering views across the valley emerge with Halls Gap nestled WAAAAAY below and Lake Bellfield glinting in the sunlight – although neither lake waters nor sunlight are guaranteed!
Pilchard and the Sleeping Giant behind the Pinnacle, Grampians National Park |
Tempting though it is to keep your
finger on the shutter button as the panorama unfolds, take my advice
and save yourself for the 360°
vista from the Pinnacle, if your nerves are strong enough to
negotiate the safety-fenced narrow neck of rock sticking out over
– well – nothing!
Halls Gap from the Pinnacle, Grampians National Park, Victoria |
Unless you count the Fyans valley just
under half a kilometre below …
Australian Raven at the Pinnacle |
If there are any left, combine the
bakery goods with a breather that'll return your complexion to normal
hues before taking the proof-I-made-it-to-the-top shots – but keep
a wary eye on the marauding Australian Raven ... The grab
rail safety fence is sturdy enough to lean on for the
obligatory photos but the view from this vantage point is just
WAAAAAY too big to effectively capture in one shot.
Although its virtually guaranteed
you'll have time to spare while you wait your turn on the Pinnacle –
tedious 'Titanic' type photo shoots are becoming de rigueur!!!
Before the landmark-altering flooding
rains of January 2011, descent options included a round trip through
a series of natural rock formations known as 'Wonderland'; or
continuing along the ridgetop before descending to the valley. Just
how impressive that ridgetop is can be clearly seen from the well
known Boroka lookout high on the range behind Halls Gap – a
shortish drive and a 50m stroll and this magnificent panorama will
give you all the context you need for your Pinnacle assault!
But not the same sense of satisfaction!
Boroka Lookout View - Rocky Ridge leading to the Pinnacle at right |
Now, unless you've got the stamina for a further 9.5 km hike to Lake Bellfield, and another few km back to Halls Gap, the shortest return option is to retrace your steps.
Pilchard descends the staircase from hell |
Keep a close eye on those killer
knee-wrecking stairs as you descend to prevent them becoming killer
neck-breaking stairs!
And make way for the show-offs idiots really fit people who JOG
down!!
And that D) will no longer be a problem
...
Read more:
Bonza photos, i can't pick a favourite one this time. You certainly look like you needed that rest after all the climbing.
ReplyDeleteVery impressive views. The lake appears to be higher than the valley. Water supply? I think the Pinnacle would be a fine place for a chair lift.
ReplyDeleteI see what it means when they say the view takes your breath away. I'd be huffing and puffing to get up that high also, but the view... Your photos are excellent.
ReplyDeleteMarvelous post, Red! This is my kind of day for the obsessed hiker in me. We normally choose trails that have gondolas to take us back down the mountain (to save our knees). For this one, I'd have to walk back down, right?
ReplyDeleteHope you're doing well!
G'day Red, the photos and the views are totally sensational, worth (D) :) although you don't look too (D) in the photo Red!
ReplyDeletethe wildflowers are gorgeous!!! and I won't have to attempt it myself one day because I have you. If you weren't such a good photographer, well, I might but hey! you are.......
I think this is called armchair travel at its best..... now shall I turn the aircon up a notch?......
x
Do NOT attempt this walk if you don't like A) heights; B) snakes...
ReplyDeleteSnakes!?!? I can deal with all those things except snakes.
Wow, the views and rock formations are awesome! And the wildflowers are a pretty sight to see. Sounds like a great time. Wonderful photos!
ReplyDeleteRed, thanks for a great article describing the walk to the top of the Pinnacles! It has been a few years since we last visited the Grampians but I agree that it is an amazing place to visit!
ReplyDeleteA fantastic post Red, beautiful photos. From experience, I think the climb down is harder on the legs and knees than climbing up, Will have to put this area on my To Do List.
ReplyDeleteWhen I'm not in Florida, I prefer the mountains. This scenic spot reminds me of Chimney Rock, North Carolina. Minus the cool metal steps with no hand rails. I always think I'm fit enough for the climb but at 4,000 feet higher than my home, the air is not quite so thick and chewy and full of water. I tend to make it to the overlook Red faced and wheezing like a buzz saw to witness a view that takes my breath away. Always worth it.
ReplyDeleteI like B and C and am not at all afraid of A or D but I still doubt I could make it to the top..... I wouldn't want to wear that T shirt b/c I'm afraid I might BE having a heart attack, especially now that we spend most of our time in the 'flatlands'. But oh wow it is so beautiful up there...thanks for sharing the amazing views. Wonderful post.
ReplyDeleteLove this. Now you've come into my kind of territory. I'd try to do that climb, although I probably couldn't make it. I'll practice up on Mount Helena behind my house and make the climb with you. Kidding, of course, but I'd love to. Now in the winter, I walk with with Cody around the fair grounds (flat and often muddy) but I stay off the mountain in the winter as it's STEEP AND MUDDY. Coming down in winter is a real trip.... often on my muddy butt.
ReplyDeleteI'm looking at the babe on her picture-taking-break. Whooo Hooo
Oh my! I would certainly have screaming knees by the time I made it up there, but the view would be worth it!
ReplyDeleteCongratulations - you've finally managed to show me why the Grampians are so popular. Until now I've only seen isolated shots that looked like bit of rock anywhere. Taken as a whole I can see why they are so impressive. My knees appreciate the trouble you've taken to spare them.
ReplyDeleteWell A and B would do it for me Red, if I made it to the viewpoint I'd just be so chuffed I wouldn't care what I looked like..stunning landscapes as always.
ReplyDeleteThis was just an astounding post. I love it when you actually show photos of you both at the different levels of your climb. The scenery is just so beautiful. I would want to climb to the top too, resting here n there to observe each delicate flower and snake? ha,ha The bakery sounds like a must do, the granite peaks of the rock wall and the view from the top - just stunning. Great Post my dear, you have outdone yourself again. Loved this post.
ReplyDeleteThose views are just amazing!! But LOL, I've done exactly what you did, catching my breath under the guise of photographing a hiking scene! It's worth it all for stunners like this...beautiful!
ReplyDeleteYou adventurous soul:) Lovely views but the heights and snakes would get my blood pumpin:) However, with such excellent bird and wildlife opportunities, I would do it in a heartbeat:) Thanks for the share and experience:) About those snakes....
ReplyDeleteThat looks like one heck of a climb!
ReplyDeleteThe sort of thing I could only do in my dreams.
I'm not afraid of heights or anything else, but I probably don't have the endurance.
I'd probably set the record for the slowest ascent ever.
And an equally slow descent.
Wow - spectacular images! I especially love the wildflowers/ground orchids, they are beautiful.
ReplyDelete@Windsmoke - Luckily, you don't HAVE to pick a fave!! And sadly, that rest stop wasn't even half way up ...
ReplyDelete@Andrew - Well spotted, Lake Bellfield is a dam!! Nearly dried up in the drought ... HHHMMMmmm... a chairlift would get me back to the bakery SO much quicker. SO ... that makes it RIGHT!!!
@Taken for Granted - Yep, that view takes your breath away - BOTH ways!!!
@Chris - Hey, so great to hear from you! Your right - no gondolas or chairlifts on these peaks!! At least I've got a new excuse for my creaky knees that doesn't include age ...
@Rose - Haha, you're WAY too kind!!! Must be Pilchards stellar pic-taking efforts, because I felt like D) ALL the way!!!
@Beach Bum - Yeah ... where's a mongoose when you need one!!! Isn't a world without snakes called 'paradise'?? Try Fiji or Lord Howe Island for a snake-free wonderland!!!!
@eileeninmd - It sure helped that it was also a perfect day! How annoyed would I have been if I'd got to the top & my photos looked crap??!!
ReplyDelete@Pretraveller - It had also been a few years for us - now I know it's SO worth revisiting!! Give it a go!!
@Linley S - I can agree with you from bitter experience ... the descent down those stairs was DEATH to the thigh muscles!!! But strangely, the pain faded away in the bakery afterwards ... I can really recommend this area - oh wait! I actually HAVE recommended it!!!
@SFlaGuy - Not sure if the stairs make it better or worse!! At least there's less erosion on the trail - always a problem in extreme mountain weather!!! I'm sure one day I'll be air-vac'ed out because some random but well meaning fellow hiker will think I'm in the throes of a heart attack ... Just something about the mountains, huh?!
@Sallie - The trick is to start early enough so you can take all day if you need it. Besides, all those 'photo' breaks meant I captured the rocks, wildflowers and climbing apparatus to add 'colour' to the post!!! And I'm sticking to THAT excuse ...
@Manzanita - Hey, for an octogenarian who can twirl a hula hoop like I SO can't, I reckon you'd give me a run for my money ... embarrassingly!!! I've often been surprised that the butt isn't given more credence as a piece of mountain climbing equipment - I use mine ALL the time!
@TMWH - Screaming? Mine actually sounded like two rifle shots going off every time I got up - or down - for WEEKS afterwards!!! BUT ... yes, it was SO worth it!
@FruitCake - Then my work is done!! Other mountain ranges are bigger and - gulp - steeper, but the Grampians distinctive shape and personality will keep me coming back. No, they're not paying me. Sadly.
ReplyDelete@PDP - As you can tell, I don't care what I look like either!!!!
@Saucy Kod - Gosh, I better do a crap post next or I will have left myself no where to go!!!!! Seriously, thanx for the praise, you make blogging worthwhile!!!
@LONDONLULU - My dark secret is that it's DEAD easy to take good shots of a landscape like this - all you have to do is press the shutter button!!!!
@Rohrerbot - Haha, as you can see, there are NO snake pix - I was many metres away in a nanosecond!! And my blood was pumping so hard towards the top, if I'd seen a snake there it could have done what it liked because I couldn't have run to save my life!
@River - I may well already hold that record - but hey! Records were made to be broken!! We plan to spend all day - and often do, while the younger & fitter run right past. But I'm the one with the wildflower & rock shots!
@J Gray - I wish I knew what they were all called - but the Correa, Greenhood & other orchids is as good as it gets!
Ha ha, taking photos is the PERFECT cover!
ReplyDeleteWow, these views are spectacular! Haven't been since I was a kid....looks like I need to make a re-visit, for sure! So pretty!