Horseshoe Range from Carrieton, South Australia |
Live on the edge from just ten bucks a night.
That's all it costs for a powered site
at Carrieton's Horseshoe View Caravan Park with the
Stay-2-nights-Get-2-nights-FREE deal*.
Horseshoe View Caravan Park Campsite - on the edge in Carrieton |
And that's a small price to pay for a
chance to explore Carrieton, perched on the edge of the vast expanse
of the Minburra Plain stretching east with virtually nothing
civilised to stop it until it hits the Barrier highway en route to
Broken Hill.
Although that doesn't really count as
civilisation either!
Three hours north of Adelaide on
the alternative route to the Flinders Ranges, Carrieton is a TOP Aussie town - and a hidden
jewel in South Australia's mid-north that's often ignored in favour
of the big ticket items further north.
But bypass Carrieton and you'll miss
some of the least well known, but most intriguing and delightful
Outback scenery in South Australia!
It's no hardship to stay for 4
nights – necessary to get the full benefit of the Horseshoe
View's special deal. The superbly set up AND quiet little caravan
park off the main road in the old school grounds the community
purchased when the school was closed a few years ago has everything.
Anglican Church, Carrieton, South Australia |
And if you aren't a camper, you'll LOVE how the locals have converted
the old school buildings into cottage and bunkhouse style
accommodation …
The locals are used to living on the
edge. Yanyarrie Whim on the outskirts of town is all that
remains of the watering point on the 1800s North/South Stock Route
and mining trail responsible for putting Carrieton on the map.
Carrieton Rodeo and Campdraft Posters |
On the wrong side of the Goyder
Line, surveyed in 1865 to determine the boundary of
cropping land, the district's low and inconsistent rainfall drove
many from the land leaving only a legacy of stone ruins behind.
Later when the Prince Alfred mine closed in 1907, then the railway in
1981, followed more recently by the school, Carrieton faced an
uncertain future.
Johnburgh Ruin, via Carrieton |
But also taking responsibility for
keeping it on the map is a determined and forward-looking progress
association who refuse to let the town die.
Community owned and run, the caravan
park is just one innovation to keep the town afloat. The
excellent and well stocked general store – also a community
initiative – means visitors don't have to leave town to purchase
fuel or food.
But the REAL reason to base yourself on
the edge in Carrieton is to explore this amazing part of South
Australia that many Aussies haven't even heard of, let alone seen!
A selection of sightseeing options will
make up several day trips – and don't forget to factor in some time
to relax in the beautifully kept school grounds, and chat to the
friendly locals.
So here's one version of how to spend 4
days on the edge in Carrieton:
Day 1: Eat and Explore
Drive 44 km north to the Cradock
Hotel for lunch. Sightings of the ghost of former
publican 'Lawrence' aren't guaranteed, but you WILL get a great meal
served up with country hospitality!
When you return, explore Carrieton's attractions like Yanyarrie Whim and the excellent 12 metre Mosaic Mural depicting the town's history on the Public Toilets (!). Ask for directions to the creek behind the caravan park and walk up the creek bed where massive river Redgums and high RED cliffs tower above you.
Catholic Church, Carrieton |
When you return, explore Carrieton's attractions like Yanyarrie Whim and the excellent 12 metre Mosaic Mural depicting the town's history on the Public Toilets (!). Ask for directions to the creek behind the caravan park and walk up the creek bed where massive river Redgums and high RED cliffs tower above you.
Sunset at Carrieton Creek bed, South Australia |
Then set up a date with the sunset over
the Horseshoe Range ...
Day 2: Ruins and Redgums
Oladdie Road, via Carrieton, South Australia |
Take a picnic lunch and drive 20 km
west on the Oladdie road to Johnburgh. The superb mountain scenery
includes farmland, many ruins and unusual rock formations.
After
looking around almost-ghost-town Johnburgh, take the Belton turnoff
and follow the marvellous Bendleby Ranges to the Weira Creek
crossing.
River Redgum Random, Weira Creek via Carrieton |
The massive River Redgums are locally
known as 'widowmakers' because a branch big enough to crush a house
can fall without warning …
After lunch, return to Carrieton via
the Belton road – and watch for the clouds of pink dust billowing
behind you on this oddly coloured road surface.
Oh! And the scenery's not bad either ...
Rhapsody in Pink: Bendleby Ranges from the Belton Road, via Carrieton, South Australia |
Oh! And the scenery's not bad either ...
Day 3: Lookouts and Landscapes
Magnetic Hill Sign, via Orroroo, South Australia |
Drive 35 km south to Orroroo then
further south via Pekina (check out the Pub and Coffee shop!); to
Magnetic Hill, an intriguing natural phenomenon.
Return via Black
Rock and take a detour to the Black Rock Lookout for superb views
across the valley to the Pekina Range.
In Orroroo, the Tank Hill Lookout has
superb views to the north and a superb cafe in the main street. Then
check out South Australia's largest River Redgum, the old Railway
Bridge and the historic buildings in town.
On the way back to Carrieton, stop at
Walloway, site of a nasty train crash in the early 1900s then the
Eurelia railway siding for a sample of the area's history.
For a total
heritage experience, take a detour and return via the historic town
of Hammond.
Black Rock Magic, South Australia's Mid North |
Day 4: Ranges and Rocks
Take another picnic lunch and drive 28
km west through the superb countryside of the rocky Horseshoe Range
towards Moockra Tower. When the road gives out, hike to the Tower
for splendid views over the Range and Willochra Plain to the west.
Ranges behind Carrieton from Belton Road, South Australia |
Back in Carrieton, after testing out
the golf course circumnavigating the town, make another date with
that sunset ...
Old seeder at Yanyarrie Whim, Carrieton, SA |
Although my stay in Carrieton
undoubtedly assisted the local community in a small way, it didn't
take long to realise the locals were doing ME a favour by making it
easy for me to stay and enjoy life on the edge!
Carrieton Sunset |
Read MORE:
You've got to explain the Magnetic Hill sign. Did you try it? How could you not try it?
ReplyDeleteThanks for the nice tour of Carrieton! Sounds like a deal on the campsite! The rodeo sounds like a fun time! Pretty views and love the landscapes. Wonderful post, thanks for sharing!
ReplyDeleteCarrieton....it sounds so familiar, as if I've been there, but there's nothing familiar in any of your photos.
ReplyDeleteThere's so much open space!
I certainly need no introduction to this corner of our state. I love the mid-north and have adored the little church at Craddock for more than 40 years. Orrorroo had a fabulous gourmet pie bakery . We always take the 'alternate route' north. Not too keen on the tourist run. I know the embellishment on the Carrieton toilets but have never had the necessity to stay there, must remedy that. Is the old harmonica playing publican still resident at the Hammond pub?
ReplyDeleteLast time I was there, there were only eight people in residence.
I like the way you do a place thoroughly.
I love the red road at Anglican Church - reminds me of Prince Edward Island. The colour from the ground to the sky at Black Rock Magic is uplifting to the soul - the old piece of ?farm machinery by the road very interesting and of course I love the sunset with the pinkish red clouds in the sky and the silhouette of the lone tree. All beautiful Red. Loved it.
ReplyDeleteGood planning. Lovely captures from the place, i like the one looking toward sky with branches all over.
ReplyDeletePay two night and stay free 2 nights is a deal in any country. I wonder if they offer that during Rodeo time too?
ReplyDeleteG'day Red, I don't suppose I'll ever hit the road again now, but boy! did this post get me road-hungry. What a place! What a find! -drool-
ReplyDeleteR.
Great travelogue. Of course if we were ever so lucky to be there, we'd stay in that lovely caravan park, but it is neat to think how they turned the old school into a cottage/bunk place. Good for them. Lots of history and beautiful scenery.
ReplyDeleteYou always take us on quite a journey. It amazes me how come you find these places. Love the colours of the sky and the land especially that pink hue.
ReplyDeleteI'm with Andrew above. Did you try the Magnetic Hill thing?
ReplyDeleteDid you say something? Oh sorry, I was too distracted by those BEAUTIFUL scenes! (Love those redgums especially:)
ReplyDeleteRed, nice of you to stand under that widowmaker to get such a great shot and share it with everyone.
ReplyDeletethanks Red for introducing me to Carrieton. No never heard of it - but we are heading to South Oz later this year, so I will be putting it on our list of places to visit. Gorgeous views and pics, and always a wonderful read.
ReplyDeleteThanks!
Stunning pics!!! But what is it with the Magnetic Hill Sign???
ReplyDeleteYou're absolutely right about Carrieton and district Red. I used to board up at Cradock when driving a school bus to the Hawker Area School and got to Carrieton very well. Indeed, I was confirmed in the Anglican Church there in 1970 as an adult.
ReplyDeletePekina singer/songwriter, John O'Dea, has a brilliant song about the Carrieton Rodeo and it's a real toe-tapper.
I remember the train still using the line between Quorn and Peterborough via Carrieton, Hammond and Bruce.
Back in 1970 I was taken to see the old Prince Alfred Mine in operation as it was reworked at the height of the Poseidon Mining Boom; I believe it's now inaccessible but I would love to be able to revisit it sometime soon.
Thanks for reviving memories of a wonderful, yet overlooked part of South Australia; it really is a treasure out there, including the Bendleby Ranges.
I know where I'm going in my vintage caravan during my annual leave in June!
PS: Magnetic Hill really is simply amazing; we took the boys there many years ago and could not believe what seemed to be happening! Go there. Go to Orroroo as well as that's a town that has made huge efforts to become visitor-attractive and worth a visit.
Pay 2 stay 2 works nicely for me. I prefer a picnic lunch to any other kind.
ReplyDeleteWhenever I see Outback I think of the man discussing his trip(quite a few years ago) & the young waitress who said: I love that steakhouse! ~Mary
Are you ever home? I mean, literally, are you ever home? Quality - as usual
ReplyDelete@Andrew - Of COURSE I tried it!! Stay tuned ...
ReplyDelete@eileeninmd - I've yet to experience the rodeo - it's midsummer downunder when it's on!!! But one day ...
@River - Like us, you've probably been through it en route to the Flinders Ranges, or further north. When we found it had a caravan park, we thought we'd check it out!! SO worth it!!
@Arija - Fewer places more thoroughly is our preference!! That way we discover all the hidden secrets!! What a bummer about the Orroroo bakery - although Maggie's Rendezvous café is a reasonable substitute!! But just wait until you see what FAAAABULOUS baked stuff I found further north!!!
@Saucy Kod - Ooops! Forgot to caption the machinery! Will fix!! I'm amazed about some of the similarities between the OZ outback & PEI - weird, given their geographical differences!! Thanx for dropping by - it's always a pleasure!!
@Indrani - Thank you!! I'm starting to look for different ways to 'see' a place, so I'm glad you liked my photographic experiement!
@Manzanita - Hahaha, you've got to be kidding!!! The population swells considerably & it's standing room only in all the accommodation!! But ... it's still a good deal the rest of the time!
@Rose - Never say never, girlfriend!!! What's to stop you?? I hope I keep you drooling until you give in & take a trip somewhere!!!
ReplyDelete@Sallie - Hahaha! I'm actually tempted to go back & stay in the school room ... but maybe I'll save it for my 2nd childhood!!
@Fun60 - It's easier to find places like this when you've got time to look. We rarely book ahead so we can stay the extra time if we find a good spot - or move on real quick if it's a dud!
@FigMince - Hahaha, of COURSE we did!! Stay tuned!! LOVE your name - ironically, I was given a bag of figs by the Caravan Park hosts! Weird, huh!!
@LONDONLULU - What I say has been ignored by the best in the business, so of course it's no problem ... some of my best descriptions are in the pix!
@Go Camping - Well ... not having kids helps! Also a healthy sense of curiosity - and MAPS! Wouldn't have even known about Black Rock Lookout if we hadn't seen it on the map & wondered what it was like!!
@FruitCake - I didn't know I could move so fast ... apart from snake spotting, it's probably the only time EVER my legs have been a blur!
ReplyDelete@Jill - You'll find it just south of the Flinders Ranges. I hope you like it as much as I did if you visit - the back roads are so often the best!
@Iris - All will be revealed in a future blog post! Stay tuned!!
@Gawain - You're one up on us with the Prince Alfred mine ... but did you get to Eurelia??!! Maybe we can meet up in Carrieton to go to the rodeo one day ... but I'll settle for another look at the area during wildflower season!! That pink road keeps calling my name ...
@Mary - Hahaha, I do keep forgetting that the specific Aussie meaning of 'Outback' might not make sense to everyone else!!! Combining an al fresco lunch with bakery food is the best kind of paradisical picnic!!!
@Glen - Haha, funny you should ask. I'm most ALWAYS home if you count our home/beach shack/camper trailer combo as a micronation!!!!
Lovely photos, many of my ancestors went broke trying to farm beyond Goyders Line, I'm not exactly sure where their farms were, but they were hard working folk, that's for sure.
ReplyDeleteEnjoyed your photos after having spent the day in and around Carrieton today.
ReplyDelete@Jai Baidell - It's heartbreaking to read/hear about how difficult life was for some of the pioneers in these parts. It's beautiful country - but it can be deadly too!
ReplyDelete@Joan Thompson - Hope you enjoyed it as much as I did!! Do they still have the 'Stay 2 nights, get 2 nights free' deal at the caravan park??