Sunset at Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park, Western Australia |
Circular Pool from Above, Karijini National Park |
Ho Hum.
Another day in the Pilbara, another
killer landscape ...
A movement among the rocks far below
caught my eye.
Negotiating massive rock slabs higher than they were,
and crossing vast tables of square-but rock, two hikers the size of
ants headed towards the imaginatively named Circular Pool.
(Yes, that white speck at the waters edge in this photo really IS a person!)
'That's where we'll go tomorrow,'
Pilchard announced.
Say WHAT?? How in heck were we going
to get down there when the map showed 'cliff risk area' symbols all
along the gorge edge? Symbols whose warnings I was only too happy to
heed??
That 'killer' landscape was taking on a whole new AND unwelcome meaning ...
Rock Layers en route to Circular Pool, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park |
But as we picked our way along the
A
strategically placed ladder made negotiating the really
steep bits almost easy.
And if I DID slip and fall??
Well …
it'd be hard to find a more picturesque location in which to receive
a serious injury. Or two. Or even die.
No, Karijini National Park was no place
for a coward.
Set amidst the impossibly RED Hamersley
Range and out in the deep heart of mining country, Karijini's warning
signs are for real.
Rangers and volunteers risk – and sometimes lose – their lives rescuing tourists who don't heed the dangers.
Rangers and volunteers risk – and sometimes lose – their lives rescuing tourists who don't heed the dangers.
Circular Pool, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park |
So I was watching my footing as we took
the Circular Pool detour over those same gigantic rock shelves we'd
viewed from the lookout the evening before.
They weren't as bad as
they'd looked from above.
But I hoped the people at the lookout
above didn't throw anything down …
After leaving the rock slabs, the river
waters ran deep through groves of trees with those red Red RED rocky
walls towering high above, tinged every now and then with a dash of
blue.
Blue?? In this location and in these
rocks it took on a sinister meaning …
Rock Layers, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park |
Only about 50 km away as the crow
flies is Wittenoom,
where crocidolite
– otherwise known as the potentially deadly Blue Asbestos – was mined
extensively in what surely must be Australia's greatest industrial
disaster, and immortalised by Aussie Band Midnight Oil in their song
Blue Sky
Mine.
Sadly, although the mine was closed in 1966 (for
economic rather than safety reasons), it is estimated that in
addition to the 2000+
deaths from asbestos related diseases, the death toll will not
peak until the 2020s.
Were these crocidolite layers in the
rock?? Perhaps not, but I was leaving them well alone …
Like I said. No place for a coward.
After the de-gazettal of Wittenoom,
nearby Tom Price*** inherited the 'Karijini Gateway' tag and is the
closest provider of goods and services.
Dales Gorge Cascades, Karijini National Park, Western Australia |
But now, although only a small stretch of the 40+ km length of Dales Gorge is accessible, it's a diverse and spectacular couple of kilometres.
The 'View' from Fortescue Falls, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park |
The rocks and ledges that had
given way to the river and trees now gave way to a series of cascades
as we headed towards Fortescue Falls.
Negotiating the treacherous and
slippery stepping stones across the river, then up the natural rock
layer steps and stairs to the top of the falls, we settled back for
lunch – and a show!
In the absence of bars and nightclubs,
why not use the falls and pool below as an alternative outback meat
market?
This walk definitely WASN'T for the faint-hearted as
scantily clad travellers cavorted, strutted and posed with all their
wares out on display!
The young man who climbed the
amphitheatre's rocky walls to take photos wasn't necessarily showing
off.
Not to me, anyway, although he seemed not to be plagued by the
vertigo I would have suffered in his place.
Spot the Tourist! |
But proving he was no
one trick pony, I inadvertently captured him in a similar pose the
next day at Joffre Falls* (check out the link at the bottom of the post if you want to see him in action AGAIN!) …
but I digress!
Fern Pool, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park |
A little further up the river, we
detoured to popular swimming spot the Fern Pool. En route to the
clear, blue water and white bodies fresh from the cooler Northern
Hemisphere climes, fig trees sprawl over the mossy rocks and ferns
grow in the grottos. Fig leaves are optional ...
Fig Trees near Fern Pool, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park |
Then it's a steep climb up the track
out of the gorge to the Falls carpark.
While it's possible my red
face, gasping for air and frequent 'photo' stops showed some of the
descending tour group what they had to look forward to after seeing
the falls up close, I was unrepentant! If could do the hard yards,
so could they although there are spectacular views of the falls from
the vantage point above the trailhead if anyone wanted to chicken
out!
Fortescue Falls from Above, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park |
To complete the loop, we followed the return path along the Gorge Rim track back to Three Ways Lookout and a tremendous view over the falls and river SO far below where we were actually walking not long before.
Dales Gorge from above on the Gorge Rim Walk, Karijini National Park |
The Karijini Visitors Centre, set amongst yet another awesome landscape – incomprehensibly under threat from a cash-strapped government looking for mining royalties during our August 2012 visit – does a roaring trade in $2 HOT Showers. After a few hours on the trail the shower is a perfect interlude before returning to the Dales Campground for – yes, you guessed it – ANOTHER scenic landscape with a late afternoon glow that turned the WAY beyond RED rocks into a shade I don't think I've ever seen before.
View from Three Ways Lookout, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park |
And as the plague of fears (the usual
suspects – heights, injury, death) I'd had at the
start of this excellent walk faded in the afterglow of achievement,
we settled back into our comfy chairs for a meal from the best little
café in Australia**.
Dales Campground, Karijini National Park, Western Australia |
Maybe there WAS a place for this coward at Karijini after all.
We were done with Dales Gorge.
For now.
Read MORE:
Gorge Rim Walk, Dales Gorge, Karijini National Park, Western Australia |
What a beautiful park! The views of the pool and lovely colored rocks and cliffs are gorgeous! My hubby would love to hike to the Circular Pool. Awesome photos and post.
ReplyDeleteMuch of this reminds me of Tucson. What a beautiful landscape that is as dangerous sometimes. That young man in your pic represents many of our college students that come from out of state to study and also explore our beautiful state. Unfortunately, about 2 weeks ago, one of the young men feel into a waterfall and wasn't seen again. It's a magnificent scene, but one that requires respect:)
ReplyDeleteI am captivated by your narrative and the beautiful photos. So many of the colors appear from an artist's palette! Thank you for the vicarious adventure in such an exotic locale. I will be back for more. You "rock" (pun intended - hah!)
ReplyDeleteBises,
Genie
Another great narrative, Red. This post reminded me of a webfriend’s trip down into the Grand Canyon, and it occurs to me you might enjoy seeing it. It’s at http://gullible-gulliblestravels.blogspot.com.au/search/label/Grand%20Canyon%20mule%20ride and there are other Grand Canyon bits available on her side bar.
ReplyDeleteKarijini is such a beautiful place - but it certainly isn't without it's risks - people have died there. I was interested to read that you walked down the track at Circular Pool. We usually opt for starting at the other end - taking the easier path downwards, then walking through to Circular Pool and then climbing up the steep track. I find climbing up a steep slippery track is easier than coming down one. At least there are 2 options at Dales George.
ReplyDeleteWe have friends who are going to Karijini very soon, and your post has certainly wetted my appetite for another visit. It really is beautiful.
But I must ask - are you camped at the generator camp? From my memory the main Dales camp was much shadier.
Happy camping and touring Red - and thanks for another fabulous post.
cheers
Wow what a great post, this country is bloody awesome and these posts really help inspire some of us to get off our bums and see some of this great country
ReplyDelete'But I hoped the people at the lookout above didn't throw anything down.' Welcome to my world.
ReplyDeleteWhat a truly spectacular place and you captured it very well.
That has to be one of the most magnificent areas you've ever photographed. I stared so long at each stunning photo, wanting to be there.
ReplyDeleteI'm with River. It is a stunning place. How brave you were to attempt that walk but it was certainly worth it so that we could enjoy the beautiful photos.
ReplyDeleteWhat a lovely place, love the colours. Fig tree roots are fascinating.
ReplyDeleteOh my gosh... that circular pool is a long, long way down there. Good thing you were holding on tight.
ReplyDeleteI was wondering, is there any dinosaur remains in the Karijini area? It looks like a great place to hunt for fossils.
ReplyDeleteSometimes the range of colours in a particular place exceed the usually high standard. Well captured. Well done to conquer your fears - I couldn't do it in a million years.
ReplyDeleteYou have a way of telling a story that has me sitting on the edge of my seat. This place reminds me quite a bit of a place in Arizona, Sedona. The color of the rock is much the same and canyons abound in the area however, nothing quite as deep as this one. (We saved that knee-quaking experience for the Grand Canyon.) This was quite an adventure and you've described it and photographed it beautifully.
ReplyDeleteRed, greatly enjoyed your photos and story of your trip to Dales Gorge. Love the colors in those rocks. Including walkers in the pictures provides a sense of perspective so we can see how vast this place it. Acrophobia is just the minds way to telling you to be careful and hang on. Thank you for a fun post.
ReplyDeleteYou are very brave, Red! And you weren't shaking while you were taking those photos!
ReplyDeleteWonderful tour of the park. Great sights along the way.
ReplyDeleteIts a combination of the most wonderful and exotic colours, landscape and foolhardy climbers (I'm sure they know what to do) that brings this post upfront and still lingering on my mind. I have enjoyed this post immensely Red.
ReplyDeleteThis is some of your most beautiful landscape photography yet. I think I've said that before in the many years I've followed this blog. The rock layers en route to the circular pool photo is just begging for a large format print. Not sure where you would hang it in your trailer home. Might be time to find yourself a nice gallery somewhere and get famous finally.
ReplyDeleteOh WOW! Absolutely stunning photos of an amazing place!
ReplyDeleteFor me the third picture is the best. Would like to be there.
ReplyDeleteGreetings,
Filip
What a country! You guys are intrepid hikers! Thanks for sharing. Beautiful landscapes...sad and scary asbestos stuff though.
ReplyDeleteRed, you really are the best tour guide for this (at the present time) armchair tourist :)
ReplyDeleteYou risk life and limb, endure impromptu peep shows and thumb your nose at asbestos - from a safe distance, hopefully, to bring us some TRULY breath-taking images!!
Mention asbestos to ANY west Aussie and we'd shiver at the knowledge of what it does, having lived with it in the media (and some of our lives) for so many years.
Respect!
The landscapes of the Karijini national park looking spectacular. I got nice information when i found your blog and its pictures such you have great captures your magical eyes.
ReplyDeletethanks for sharing your experience with us.
I can't think of a good enough adjective!! Beautiful doesn't seem enough! But it's the word I was breathing as I looked at your photos. So beautiful!
ReplyDeleteBeautiful photos my friend! They make me dream and want to go back to Western Austalia soon....sigh :)
ReplyDeleteAbsolutely stunning part of the world! I have WA on my bucket list. Thank you for sharing a wonderful part of the world!
ReplyDelete@Eileeninmd - Thank you!! It's magnificent - but the best think is that we've left plenty more to see!
ReplyDelete@Chris - Aha! I just KNEW my cowardly persona fitted it somehow!!! I think the fear engenders respect - even if my motivation is to save my own skin!!
@Genie - Haha, love your pun!! Thank you for your kind words - I guess this is a little different to Paris!!!
@FigMince - Thanx for the tip!! Our gorges are not as well known as the GC - but there sure are similarities!
@Jill - Our campsite was in a new campground 'loop' - no shade, but it wasn't too hot in early August 2012 when we were there! We were advised to do the trip the way we did & I don't regret it - I think the steep climb up from Circular Pool might have been a bit much after the rest of the walk!!! Yes, I'm a woose!!!
@Jo-Anne - Haha! I just provide the information ... what you do with it is up to you!!! But I'm glad it's inspiring!
ReplyDelete@Andrew - HAhaha, I never thought of the similarities between this place and yours! But now that you point it out, I'm not sure which is the more dangerous!
@River - As I stare at them now, wanting to be back there!
@diane b - Once I was down the goat track, it wasn't so bad ... of course I can say that NOW with the benefit of hindsight!
@whiteangel - It was ALL fascinating!! And unique in Australia!!
@MJWC - Like many things, the thought of getting down there was worse than actually doing it!
@Beach Bum - Not sure ... will have to look into that for next time!! It certainly wasn't obvious in any of the marketing material.
@FruitCake - It's amazing what one can do when one is faced with the challenge. But I DID have to really psych myself up for it!
@Sharon - I think there are many similarities from what I've seen. Would be interesting to compare this spot to the GC in size and depth.
@TFG - Haha! Thanx for making my phobias seem normal!!!
ReplyDelete@TMWH - Well ... lets just say it's lucky my camera has an anti-shake mechanism!
@Indrani - Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
@Saucy - HAha, you're right! Just because I'd never climb up there in a million years doesn't make them fools!
@SFlaGuy - You're WAY too kind! No, REALLY!!! But thanx anyway ... always nice to get your perspective!
@EG Camera Girl - Thank you! It's a pleasure to show it to you!
@Filip - And I'd like to go back again!
@Sallie - The whole asbestos thing has a way to go yet ... but the country is AMAZING!
ReplyDelete@Vicki - Thank you, my friend!
@MastHoliday - It's a pleasure!
@Pauline - And thank you to you too!
@Rocky - Haha, me too!!!
@Liz - You should - it's AWESOME!