Entering Innes National Park, South Australia |
Visit Innes National Park on a fine day
and if you don't end up with a photo that looks almost exactly like
this, you're just not trying!
Engineers Cottage, Inneston |
But joining the 'Entrance to Innes
National Park' photo club isn't the only reason to visit this
smallish 9400+ hectare National Park around 300 km from Adelaide on
the toe of the 'ill shaped leg' (take the link to see it on the map) that is South Australia's Yorke Peninsula.
Although I'd been to this magic little
park several times over the last few years, it wasn't until September
2013 we actually stayed there. And in a rare break with tradition,
we left the camper trailer at home and stayed in the restored
Engineers cottage in historic Inneston for a few days, right inside
the park with entry fees included in the tariff.
If only I could say that this meant
getting up early for sunrise shots, but alas …
However, being on site made our
exploration MUCH more leisurely!
So let me give you my updated
insider's TOP 7 things to do – a true traveller's teaser taste of
all that's GREAT about this FAAAABULOUS spot!
The Wildlife
Thanks to a close encounter at Inneston, I know EXACTLY what to do if attacked by an
emu! Just raise your hands above your head, and walk
backwards until you get to a place where you can run like hell!!
You might have to forget the photo ...
He's NOT HAPPY ... Inneston Emu and chicks |
Getting a little too close to an emu with chicks during spring
hatching season isn't recommended. In a civilised gender role
reversal rarely seen elsewhere in the animal kingdom, it's the male
who sits on the eggs and cares for the young – the female is long
gone by then!
But hard core twitchers* come here for
the rare Western Whipbird – the reason for the park's proclamation
in 1970, it's virtually the whipbird's southernmost limit and one of
the few habitats preventing it from being a Western Australian
endemic. It's also a known nesting area for Malleefowl with regular
sightings in and around Inneston.
Say WHAT? Kangaroos at Inneston, South Australia |
And if you don't see a kangaroo
somewhere in the park, don't bother buying a lottery ticket ... you're obviously the world's most unlucky person!
The Scenery
If magnificent (and nearly empty)
beaches, rugged rocky cliffs, towering sand dunes, coastal
vegetation, jewel like islands, lakes and wild coastlines leave you
cold, then Innes National Park probably isn't for you.
Cape Spencer Lighthouse, Innes National Park, South Australia |
But while you're gazing out over the
Great Southern Ocean at a cliff top lookout, bear in mind that if not
for the sea spray, waves and curvature of the earth, you'd be able to
see clear to Antarctica!
The History
The four clans of the Aboriginal
Narungga nation maintain strong cultural links to the Yorke Peninsula
area, and the historic campsites and shell middens found in the park.
Inneston, Innes National Park, South Australia |
Charted by Matthew Flinders over 200
years ago, the remains of civilisation from the area's early 1900's
settlement are scattered throughout the park, including the
not-quite-ghost-town of Inneston, unsurprisingly established by
William Innes. In its heyday, Inneston's Gypsum mining, with a port
at nearby Stenhouse Bay supported a peak population of around 200.
Interpretive signage along the
Investigator Strait Shipwreck trail tells tales of the treacherous
rocks, reefs and unpredictable weather that sank many ships. Down on
Ethel beach, the ever-diminishing remains of the Ethel, wrecked in
1904, show how dangerous these waters can be.
Ethel Wreck, Innes National Park, South Australia |
The Lighthouses
And that's where the lighthouses come
in! There's good reason why the lighthouses at Cape Spencer (see photo above) and West
Cape – both accessible by short walking trails – are still
operational, with Cape Spencer lighting up the night sky a short
distance from our accommodation at Inneston.
Is that a kanga I see before me?? West Cape Lighthouse, Innes National Park, South Australia |
But the unusual designs of all-metal
West Cape and rectangular Cape Spencer lighthouses AND the amazing
vistas from Cape Spencer over the cliffs and out to the Althorpe
group of islands (where the Althorpe Island lighthouse overlooks 6
shipwrecks) and the panorama from West Cape across Pondalowie Bay (see photo below) make them worth re-visiting at any time of day!!
Which is the best?? It's a near thing
– but its scenic public toilet to die for gives West Cape the edge!
The Wildflowers
Cocky's Tongue Pop Art |
RED Correa |
It's worth visiting the park in a good
season just for the bright RED Cocky's Tongue lining the roads. And
the RED Correa.
But believe it or not, there are also a
few NOT RED wildflowers in Spring (Sept-Nov down here!) and half the
fun of a walk in the park is finding them. Heavily perfumed and
delicately coloured Freesias are everywhere – especially in what
were once the settled areas, their beauty a compelling argument
against getting rid of non-natives!
If you're lucky enough to visit in
spring, be warned! Wandering the tracks around Inneston can put you
in quite serious danger of wildflower overload!
The Beaches
Just how many miles of empty, unspoiled
beach stretching off into the middle distance can you take? While
access to some of the beaches may take a little effort with steep and
treacherous tracks, who wouldn't want to try to make it down to
Browns Beach? Where yes, there ARE two other people ...
Brown's Beach, Innes National Park, South Australia |
Or to explore the Ethel Wreck (see photo above)??
But I'll leave it to you to decide if a
bad weather day makes the West Cape beach more or less of an
attraction!!
A wet day at West Cape, Innes National Park, South Australia |
The Walks
Exploring Innes National Park on foot
is one of the best ways to experience everything.
Wander the 11 km round trip Gym Beach
walk or the 4km return Royston Head hike for wildflowers, amazing
coastal scenery and beaches. Do the 1 km loop West Cape Headland
hike right past the lighthouse and that awesome view. Walk through
Inneston and along the Thomson-Pfitzner Plaster trail for a taste of
history, wildflowers and wildlife, and the short South Cape
lighthouse walk for scenery.
Althorpe Islands from Stenhouse Bay Lookout Walk, Innes National Park |
And do the Stenhouse Bay Lookout walk
for ALL of the above.
Yes, it's SO sounding like you're going
to need to spend more than a day here, right? And given my total
lack of photo manipulation skills, this really IS what it looks like.
So if it seems as if the jewel-like Innes National Park with its
bountiful natural attractions is just a little too good to be true,
then my work is done.
But I don't think I could prove
electronic photo theft of my first shot given the omnipresence of
'Entrance to Innes National Park' shots on the web!
Pondalowie Bay from West Cape Lighthouse, Innes National Park |
* Twitcher = Birdwatcher! Go figure!!
Want MORE?
- Inneston Heritage Accomodation, Innes National Park
- Yorke Peninsula in 7 Days – my Rocky Travel guest post
- More photos of Innes National Park and Yorke Peninsula on Flickr
This truly is a gorgeous place to visit. If I were standing out at that Cape Spencer lighthouse I think I'd feel like was standing at the end of the world. On another note entirely, I must have been an emu in another life. That lifestyle makes perfect sense to me. :-)
ReplyDeleteYour photography has a really developed a very professional quality. I need to take another class I think to keep up.
ReplyDeleteIt looks like a place I would like to visit. I don't like being too far from the sea. I like the last photo the most. How convenient to have steps down to the beach to make things easier for people of a certain age, like me.
ReplyDeleteI'm so behind on catching up on my fave blogs!
ReplyDeleteI have just gone back over your recent posts and my stomach did flips at so many of your AMAZING photos, Red!
Just beautiful, as always.
The Grampians... oh, be still my heart! Hubby and I have sometimes discussed a weekend there - now it's a MUST!!
And, I really enjoyed Andrew's interview too. Must check out his blog.
I have long loved lighthouses, and even obsessed about wanting to live in one some years ago. These coastal shots are so good - I can almost smell and taste the salty air and hear the sea birds.
Makes me miss Albany so, so much.
Always a true delight to visit your blog, and gives me such a hankering to travel.
Itchy, itchy feet :)
You sure know how to whet the appetite for travelling to Yorke Peninsula. It looks rugged and exciting. I have done the other toe.......Fleurieu Peninsula. (Nice wines)
ReplyDeleteWhat a very nice places and lovely pictures...... wish i could visit your nice country.
ReplyDeleteThanks for this GREAT post.
Greetings, Joop
This place is breathtaking, and impossible to choose a favorite. . .all are so lovely.
ReplyDeleteOnly one thing wrong with it - an awfully long way from my back door!
ReplyDeleteI'll bite... is there some reason it's better to raise your hands above your head when backing away from a grumpy emu? My own [hitherto uninformed] instinct would be to leave my hands down ready to protect the flabb I mean more vulnerable parts of my torso. Is it a height/ look intimidating thing? If so, raising my hands would be pointless.
ReplyDeleteI don't think less of you for retreating... One peck from an emu is enough to make anyone peck themselves.
Red, your posts never fail to delight and entertain. Almost feel like I've been there after visiting your blog.
ReplyDeleteG'day Red! I've been MIA and am enjoying catching up on all of your recent posts. Breathtaking images as always, which consistently leave me with itchy feet. I'd love you to do a 'lighthouse' post if you have lots of lighthouses that is! (Followers can be so demanding..... :)
ReplyDeleteLoved the interview in previous post!
Happy wandering
R.
Red, thanks for sharing the story of your visit to the fabulous Innes National Park. It looks amazing and also a bit off the beaten toursit track which is great.
ReplyDeleteFabulous photos. It's been ages since I saw an emu father with his brood. Lucky you... even if you did get a bit close for safety. :)
ReplyDeleteInnes National Park is definitely going on my must-visit list.
@Sharon - Hahahaha!! I think emus were put on earth to show us humans how things SHOULD be done!! And it's funny - I get the same feeling from Cape Spencer!!
ReplyDelete@SFlaGuy - Hahaha, you're WAY too kind, my friend!! Especially when I consider that one of these shots was taken with my old film camera, several others with Pilchard's old digi-cam and the rest with my current camera! I'll leave you to work out which are which!! But thanx anyway!
@Andrew - I think the steps are OHS requirements these days!!! But it IS a wonderful place - I'm glad I seemed to have done it justice, judging by the comments!!
@Vicki - If you've got itchy feet after reading my blog, then my work is done!!!! Hope your Xmas whirlwind is going great - look forward to virtually catching up with you more often!!
@diane b - Hahaha, there's only one winery on YP - but it's still worth a visit!!!
@Joop Zand - I hope I can inspire you to visit one day!! Anyone who loves photography will LOVE Australia!!!
@Kate - I know EXACTLY what you mean ... I had to narrow down my shots to just these ones!!! VERY difficult!!!
@John - It's amazing the great advances in public transport these days!!!
ReplyDelete@FC - The theory is about greater height and therefore greater threat! But don't know if it REALLY worked or if the emu was going to back off anyway ... there WERE three of us!!!
@TFG - Why, thank you!!! It's always a pleasure - mine - when you visit!!!
@Rose - I do have rather a lot of lighthouse pix, now that you mention it!!! I'll have to see what can be done about your request ... just don't hold your breath!
@Anne - Almost anything off the beaten tourist trail is fine by me ... especially when it looks THIS good!!! Although I don't think all the South Aussies will be happy I'm letting people in on their BIG secret!!
@Vicki - I'll see you there sometime then! It's one of my favourite places!!!
That's a lovely place by your description and photos. It sounds like a great tourist spot as well.
ReplyDeletewow !! looks really amazing ! thanks for sharing and have a nice week end
ReplyDeleteciao from Italia
Hi, I've been enjoying your blog for some time now, but have never left a comment until now. My husband and I enjoy visiting historic lighthouses here in the U.S., and it was really interesting to see the one in this post, and the shipwreck remains. I very much enjoy your fabulous photos and amusing commentary in all of your posts.
ReplyDeleteWhat a beautiful park, the views of the water are lovely. The critters are wonderful. I love the Emu and the Kangaroos. Gorgeous photos, happy weekend!
ReplyDeleteI love the emus and I LOVE that lighthouse!!
ReplyDeleteGorgeous photos, as usual. I LOVED the blue of that water, and the RED of the flowers. Sounds like an idyllic vacation. I find myself a little jealous!
ReplyDeletePondalowie Bay - the entrance is striking - I love how the islands sit there, just waiting for you to absorb their beauty. I am tuckered out following along with this post. By the time I walked down those stairs at West Cape, I am hoping I had water and a sandwich. :) Lovely Post dear Red.
ReplyDeleteSo much beauty just across the gulf from me. i'm going to have to find out how to get there.
ReplyDelete@whiteangel - It has the rare quality of appealing to almost everyone!! Apart from those who can't cope with unspoiled beauty in remote locations, of course!
ReplyDelete@Massimo - G'day mate from downunder! Where it's ALL amazing!!!
@Christine McCann - Thank you so much for your kind comment!! I'm SO happy to 'meet' you - it's amazing to me that something I write down here is seen around the world!
@eileeninmd - If you don't see Emus and Kangas in THIS park, you're SO out of luck!!
@Optimistic Existentialist - We do give good lighthouse down here in OZ!!!
@TMWH - I hope you're jealous enough to visit one day!! Thanx again for leaving a wonderful comment, my friend!! I SO appreciate your visits!
@Saucy - Hahaha, yes this is one place where there are no bakeries to fall back on!!!! And absorbing the beauty of this whole place makes it very hard to return to reality!
@River - It's not that far from Adelaide, but once you're here Adelaide seems SO far away!!! I hope you make it one day!!!
I second every word and picture, it really is a park well worth visiting. I certainly loved it there with the sparse coastal vegetation and amazing beaches.
ReplyDelete